357. THE SANTO COLLECTION OF THE MUSEUM OF PHILIPPINE ARTS AND CULTURE, San Fernando, Pampanga

Museum of Philippine Art and Culture, San Fernando

An invitation from Mrs. ANDREA DIZON DOMINGO to the launch of her foundation’s MUSEUM OF PHILIPINE ARTS AND CULTURE, was an event certainly not to be missed by the staff of the Center for Kapampangan Studies, and that included me. Though many remember her of late, as the Chairman and CEO of PAGCOR (Philippine Amusement and Gaming Corporation), she was also at some point,  a commissioner of the Bureau of Immigration and a Pampanga congresswoman.

A cabinet-ful of antique santos

But I remember Mrs. Domingo as an owner of a well-know antique shop in Intramuros—GALERIA ANDREA—and who later put up a swanky branch at the LRI Plaza in Makati. I was a habitue of her antique shop that was always full to the rafters with antique santos, exquisite colonial jewelry, paintings, blue and white jars, and pottery diggings—all tastefully displayed under glass or organized on shelves and walls. 

Ivory Sto. Nino flanked by San Jose and Sta. Maria

I only have one santo purchase to show after all my frequent visits to her shops— an armless Santo Niño with a bone face on a globe base. I was content with browsing at her shops as she had probably one of the most select antique pieces in Intramuros. So, when I learned that she was opening a museum, I had no doubt that it will be nothing less than the best—I had already in my mind the quality and diversity of pieces she will be showcasing.

An ivory Calvario scene.

I had expected a small museum in a San Fernando subdivision, but I was floored when I saw it was in a huge 2-story building with expansive spaces. She explained that the building was a re-purposed ballroom dance hall that she had built at a time when she took up the hobby, and wanted a venue for other dance enthusiasts.

A folk Virgen and Sto. Nino in a box urna

Entering the well-lit, cavernous hall were walls and walls of paintings from past and present masters, presidential merit winners, Mabini painters,  and National Artists, a virtual who’s who in Philippine art history. Outside of Manila, this museum has perhaps the largest assemblage of paintings done by National Artists—works of Amorsolo, Ang Kiukok, Botong Francisco, hang side by side with the paintings of Magsaysay-Ho,  Edades, Joya, and Legaspi. 

A cabinetful of antique santos

In another wing, the rooms displayed pre-colonial artifacts like bul-ols, oriental trade jars, potteries from various diggings, tribal art and textiles. 

More santos on display.

But of course, the one room that piqued my interest most was the santo collection in a wing of its own. The most precious ones—including the valuable ivories, were shown in well-lit floor to ceiling glass cabinets. The amazing exhibit featured mostly folk santos, many left overs from her antique shops, but still of impeccable quality no less. The antique santo collection is featured in these photos.

L-R: Ivory San Juan Bautista, and a pair of wooden San Roques

The MUSEUM OF PHILIPPINE ART AND CULTURE is set to open fully in July. It is located along the highway of San Fernando, brgy. San Agustin, next to Ramar Village, and across St.  Scholastica Academy. 

A gathering of Virgins and Sto. Ninos

A Sto. Nino among Virgenes

Ivory santos of the most precious variety

More ivories for the eyes to feast on.

The Ivory Section of the exhibit

Folk antiquities

Of wood and ivory.

A trio of charming Sto. Ninos

Inmaculada Concepcion

A wide-eyed San Pedro

Sagrada Familia in ivory

Inmaculada Concepcion

San Miguel Arcangel

A Bohol Sto. Nino and matching urna

Virgen del Rosario

302. MINE EYES HAVE SEEN THE GLORY, II

In the course of my over three decades of antique santo collecting, I wish I could say I have seen everything, been there, done that. But as they say, collecting takes a lifetime, and you never really stop looking around. That's collector's instinct!

But I certainly have seen a lot, and this article is all about that—the things my eyes have seen through all these years—beautiful santos, ugly santos, folk santos, elaborate tableaus. Then there are the  antique shop pieces that I could not afford, pictures of ivories e-mailed to me for my consideration, heirlooms for sale by families, tabletop images peddled by middlemen. And what about those santos that got away? I have since retired from santo collecting, but whenever I see these pictures, I still get a tinge of regret, leading me to ask myself—now, why didn’t I get that? I don’t even know what happened to these santos—most of them, I presumed must have been sold, re-sold or in still on somebody’s shelves, as these were taken many years ago.

SANTO NINO DE TONDO PRINT. This is just a vintage print, but I thought this Sto. Nino of Tondo. Manila vintage illustration on paper is a nice piece. Maybe this was a souvenir print sold during the fiesta of Sto.Nino. The original frame is so 1950s. But then, my walls are already crowded with paintings and framed artworks.

UNIDENTIFIED MALE SAINT. A friend sent this photo of a chapel-sized santo of a male saint for identification. I thought it looked like either St. John Berchman or St. Gerard Majella. But the habit is all wrong for either of the two. For once, I was stumped.

SAGRADA FAMILIA, ANTIQUE BONE. I got all excited when a dealer showed me this picture of the Holy Family, which looked like they have ivory parts. but I am convinced they're of bone. Just look at where they are...are they being kept in the pantry? Well, the owner of thes eimages supposedly changed his mine, so goodbye Jesus, Maria y Jose!

CALVARIO. I was snooping around Cubao, when I chanced upon this very large figure of a crucfied Christ. Looks very 50s to me, and well made. I made an even startling discovery when I found two companion pieces--a San Juan and a Dolorosa--lying close by. So, this was a Calvario tableau after all!  But too expensive--I think the dealer read my reaction.  besides, the tableau is humongous, I can't put it on my dining table!

SAN ISIDRO LABRADOR. I was invited by  dealer to see some pieces in her Angeles warehouse, but I ended up eyeing this 40 inch San Isidro de Labrador--with a chopped nose. There it stood on her dresser, along with new Santo Ninos for contrast. The 3 foot image is exquisitely carved and has a nice patina--surely, this is century old! I wanted it--despite the fact that it had no cows, angel and the kneeling landlord. I made an offer that was soundly rejected, and I came home empty-handed.

SAN ANTONIO, ANTIQUE IVORY.  A dealer apparently got my e-mail address from a friend, and introduced herself to me. ong with her mail came a pai of santo pictures---they are for sale, she said. The first piece is an all-ivory San Antonio with beautiful estofado painting on his vestments still intact, thanks to its virina. The santo wears a silevr halo, and stands 8 inches tall.

CRISTO CRUCIFICADO. The second ivory image looks to be much older--as the all-ivory corpus of the crucified  Christ has mellowed to an earthly orange-brown color. All the silver accessories are intact, which makes the oiece more appealing to me. The dealer promised to get bck to me for the prices, but she never did. Well, just form the looks of these pieces, I don't think I can afford them anyway!

ANTIQUE CALVARIO, IVORY AND WOOD. How can I forget this piece?? A Guiguinto dealer sent this picture by phone which I got while I was in transit--riding a car. It is surprising that the figure of the crucified Christ is the only one in wood, not ivory. But the manikin figures that surround Him--Mary. Magdalene and John--are incredible pieces. The problem was--I dilly-dallied and deferred my visit to the shop--and so it went to to a collector with more conviction, and with more money, for sure.

SAN PEDRO FOLK SANTO. My opinion is always solicited by  few friends before they buy a santo, so that's how I got my reputation as the go-to person when it comes to santo evaluation and pricing. I am flattered, but I don't consider myself an expert, I guess I am more exposed becuase I go out a lot, even with 20 pesos in my pocket. This charming folksy, younger-looking San Pedro, around 2 foot tall, was being considered by my friend. It even has  his "bulik" rooster by his side. The colors are strong and vibrant. And that santo face!!! Doesn't the saint look like Bruno Punzalan? So, what better advice to give my friend than to tell him--"get it, get it!"

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA. I ws alerted by a Bulacan dealer about this museum quality San Juan Bautista that looks so ancient, by all standards, Just look at the facial carving, the details of the hair and the belted camel-hair garment. As expected, the colonial santo carried hefty  6-digit price tag. I just looked and sadly turned away. I heard that the piece went dealer-hopping before it found a buyer in Manila.

SANTO NINO, POLYCHROMED SANTO. I got all excited when my suki from Bangkal, Makati sent two Bohol santo images that she said were on their way to her thrifts shop. I coul not believe my eyes--one was a Sto. Nino with a tin crown, brilliantly painted and stnding on a four-cornered rococo base. The other hitch was that---they have no prices yet. Hmmm..Red flag alert! And then I saw the next piece...

INMACULADA CONCEPCION, POLYCHROMED SANTO. A small Bohol Virgen with a trademark cherub at her foot!! She wears a tin crown, and  robe full of wavy folds and drapes. Her coloring was superb!!! But then, when they finally arrived, the santos had sustained some damage. The crown of the Sto. Nino and the facial aureole of the Inmaculada were crushed and ruined. Worse, the owner threw them away!! The price for the two could have been reasonable, but I asked for a discount considering the loss of the metal accessories. But the owner was firm, and I lost interest. Next!

SAN ANTONIO VINTAGE SANTO. While still in Bangkal, Evangelista, Makati, I saw this vintage San Antonio painted in house paint. Not exactly my cup of tea, but I was struck by the square-jawed saint who sort of reminded me of Dick Tracy.

LA PIEDAD. This Holy Week processional santo showing the Mary cradling her Son, the dead Christ, though carved in the classical tradition, lack the flowing lines of other La Piedad images I have seen. The poses are a bit rigidd, almost stiff. But that does not retract from the value of this old image. The owner was vacillating whether to sell it or not--so I thought it was better to give him more time to think about it. I never saw the images again.

STA. VERONICA. This small processional image of La Veronica was offered to me sometime in the mid 1990s by a San Fernando dealer. Though old, I really din't like it because it was so expressionless (missing glass eyes), and was carved without flair. See how ramrod straight she stands?  Sometime in early 2000s, it resurfaced in the house of another dealer in Sta. Rita. Is she following me after her rejection? Well, I rejected the image again.

MATER DOLOROSA, ANTIQUE IVORY. There was this dealer I met who kept cajoling me to check out his stock. I actually did and found nothing of interest. When he sked me what I was looking for, I said I was looking for an ivory Dolorosa. He got my number and promised to get back to me. Months later, I had a call from him--he wanted to check a Dolorosa that was with him. nd it was for sale. I rushed to his shop and found this lovely piece! I wanted it! Problem was, he said he has to confer with the seller for the price. Disappointed, I left his place.When I called him again, he said that the price has been sold, better luck, next time. Nope...there will be no next time.

SAN ROQUE. This is a tall image of San Roque--and it is complete. As you can see, the best carved figure is the saint himself; the angel and the dog are mediocre works, maybe done by a separate carver.Though complete and not too expensive, I was not sold on this image. That's maybe how other collectors may have felt, too, as the piece went from one shop to another and went unsold for many month

SAGRADA FAMILIA FOLK SANTOS IN A VIRINA. When i was still working in Makati, I would take the train from Ayala station so I could have lunch at Shangrila Mall. There was also an an antique shop there, and this folk grouping of the Holy Family caught my eye--only because the oval virina and its original base was more appealing to me than the images. Alas, the seller said I have to buy the whole assemblage, which does not make sense as the wooden folk santos are better off displayed in a folk urna. I had heavy dessert instead.
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STA. RITA DE CASCIA. When I chanced upon this spectacular church-size santa carved in the round, I stood stupefied. It was beautiful!!! It had this imploring look on her face that semm ot say--"buy me! buy me!". I wasn' sure as to her identity, but my instinct tells me she is Sta. Rita, despite the absence of her trdemark stigmata (or perhaps, I didn't check her forehead due to extreme excitement. I wasn't too sure of her age either. But most of all, I wasn't sure if this was stolen and carted off by unscrupulous thieves for sale to Bulacan dealers. So I held off--I remember it was priced at 70 thousand. I just took a picture and never came back.

INMACULADA CONCEPCION ANTIQUE IVORY. Well, I came back for this ivory Maria many times--at the shop of the late Ramon Villegas at La O center. For some reason, I was fascinated by this piece, which stood almost 16 inches tall (see how her head is touching the tip of the virina). I guess it's the simplicity of the carving, thiugh not as finely carved, the face exudes an expression of serenity, with a calming gaze. Mon even told me about the image's provenance; he said it came from cfrom an old Quiapo family. I think I visited the shop 4 times, but never got around to making a decision to take her home. When I last visited his shop, his ivory angels were all snapped up, but this Inmaculada remained. When Mon died, I regretted not getting this, even more. Sigh,

300. MY FIRST SAN ROQUE

San Roque (St. Roch of Montpellier)-- along with  San Vicente Ferrer, San Isidro Labrador, San Jose--are perhaps the most popular santo devotions in the early days of our Christianization, this, based on the abundance of images carved in their likeness.  San Isidro was a natural choice for an agricultural country, while San Jose, well, he was Jesus’ father. The winged San Vicente was known as an “angel of the Apocalypse”, and angels, too,  appear in the iconographies of  San Vicente and San Isidro Could it be our fascination with heavenly winged messengers  that drew Filipinos  closer to these saints?

A more plausible explanation was that our islands and its people were prone to widespread epidemics. The cholera pandemic that killed a million people in Russia hit the Philippines in 1858. The great cholera epidemic would happened again in 1882 and from 1902-1905 that claimed over 200,000 lives.  In the course of time, we have had severe outbreaks of  smallpox , typhoid fever, malaria and tuberculosis.

Our Spanish colonizers, in order to facilitate their evangelization, introduced us to San Roque, his life and his works---how he ministered to the sick in plague-ridden Italy, until he got ill himself. He retreated to a cave where a dog came to bring him bread for sustenance, and licked his wounds that healed them. After his death, an angel was said to descend from heaven, holding a tablet which he laid on the head of the saint. On it was written a prayer, which declared that anyone who calls on San Roque will be spared from  any pestilence.

Because of this, the friars urged the Filipinos to invoke the saint against epidemics and “peste”, cholera, most specially.  People also dropped down on their knees to appeal to San Roque to cure their skin ailments, relieve the pain of bad knees, and keep their dogs healthy.

I can’t even remember what particular shop I brought my first antique San Roque. I do know that I got it in the early ‘80s from one of the stores in Mabini Art Center, then one of the ‘antique’ enclaves of Ermita. I paid exactly Php 170 for this primitive folk example,  which came complete, although its head seemed to have fallen off and then reattached at some point. I guess this was why I got it for that bargain price, as you can get a perfect set back then for Php 300.

The 12 inch., rather thin San Roque stands on a plain, rectangular base, adding ¾” of an inch more to its height. His head sits askew on its shoulders; I had thought it was due to the bad restoration, but I had the head properly re-attached since, and it seems it was really carved with an awkward tilt. The saint’s eyes are bulgy, the beard full, and the mouth is wide.

Wearing a pilgrim cape and a short tunic, San Roque is shown lifting the hem high to reveal the wound on his left knee. There is quite a distance between his pointing finger and the location of the wound though. Note also how rough the folds of the tunic are carved,

He holds a staff with his right hand—I lost the original staff when one of his fingers broke—the one that secured it in the first place. What he now holds is a replacement fashioned from a bamboo barbecue stick. In place of a carved water flask, I just hanged a tiny metal bell.

The unimpressive angel—carved from a narrow piece of wood—stands 7 inches, and no longer has its tablet. It could have been made of tin, on which a native ‘oracion’ would have been handwritten. The native dog has broken one rear and one front foot, but  it has still the ‘pan de sal’ firmly between his teeth.

I have kept this San Roque for some thirty years—unappealing it might be—primarily for sentimental reasons. I bought it at a time when I had the audacity to start a relatively expensive hobby, while struggling to make a living.  The thought of acquiring better quality santos was farfetched from my mind, I had no choice but to buy only what I could afford—often the headless, armless, imperfect ones--the kind Mabini dealers regularly pass up. In all those years that I’ve had San Roque with me, I have neverbeen visited by any pestilence nor  afflicted by a malady of the serious kind---except perhaps, antique addiction!

288. SANTO SIGHTINGS IN TIENDESITAS ON A RANDOM DAY, 2011

VINTAGE STA., VERONICA Processional Santa.

When Tiendesitas, a shopping complex located within Frontera Verde in Pasig on 26 Sep. 20015, it was met with much hoopla. After all, it was envisioned to be a budget-friendly shopping destination (“tiendesitas” means a cluster of little shops), with specialty “villages” that sold fashion, native food, pets, plants and other novelties.

VINTAGE STO. SEPULCRO

Of course, for santo collectors, the opening of the “Antique Village” was a welcome section of Tiendesitas, another happy-hunting ground for antique santos, all in one location.

VINTAGE CRISTO DE LA PACIENCIA

Indeed, the early list of shops that could be found there included well-known names like Sarimanok (Henry Wee), Laong-Laan Antiques (Yanga), Unang Panahon (Esposos), 888 Noble Antiques and Henry Babiera—who was instrumental in getting the shops together at the new shopping hub.

VINTAGE RESURRECION

The shops did not disappoint, as the prices were relatively reasonable (the shops were not air-conditioned and the location—along C5—was then considered very far). But when access and generation of traffic became major issues, the shops started to close—and the “antique village” shrank in size to give way to more lucrative businesses.

NEW IVORY-FACED MANIKIN SANTOS

Tiendesitas deteriorated to the point that the antique shops were reduced to a handful. Eventually, as the area became more developed commercially, Tiendesitas was upgraded by the developers in 2014, adding buildings, second-level shopping places, escalators and airconditioning. The business climate improved with its relaunch and today, Tiendesitas has 450 traders from all over the Philippines.

ANTIQUE SAN VICENTE FERRER IN URNA

However, the same cannot be said of the antique shops. The dwindling supply of quality items forced more closures and for the remaining shops to carry lower-quality antiques and reproductions—a sad statement that the glory days of the Philippine antique trade is really gone.

ANTIQUE SAGRADA FAMILIA IN URNA

In March 2011, a few years before its renovation, a walk around the antique village of Tiendesitas yielded these santo offerings from select shops still operating in the complex.

ANTIQUE SAN YSIDRO & SAN ROQUE

VINTAGE STO. ROSARIO IVORY

ANTIQUE IVORY PURISIMA

ANTIQUE STO. ROSARIO, now in R. Lopez Collection

ANTIQUE BONE SAGRADA FAMILIA IN VIRINA

OLD INMACULADA CONCEPCION